Padding and streamers: They are both Craig Green obsessions. Padding can signify comfort, like the strange leather pouches models hugged on the designer’s fall runway. It can also be used as a shield from blows. Likewise, streamers can be tossed during a celebration — Happy New Year! — or strips of fabric can be used as an instrument of bondage or restraint.
These contrasting ideas collided on Green’s runway to the feverish pounding of Berlin pianist Nils Frahm, yielding another collection richer in emotion and experimentation than actual things to wear.
But that’s what makes London London, and why Green has become a highlight of the week. Here were swaddling, layered ensembles of beige and Army green cotton, or puzzle pieces of leather and satin crudely laced together to approximate biker jackets and judo pants.
While “uncompromising and almost alien,” as the show notes acknowledged, these monochromatic, utilitarian ensembles — mainly boxy tops paired with loose, pajamalike trousers — telegraphed a simpler, more masculine allure than in past season.
This dreamy show reached a zenith with the finale looks in washed and padded silk, the models dragging small quilted blankets as an extra measure of protection. Finally, Peanuts character Linus van Pelt got his fashion moment.