An Eighties-themed birthday party got Patrick Grant nostalgic for the big, pleated herringbone trousers he used to wear as a teenager for roller disco nights. “I learned to figure skate when I was young, so when it came to roller disco, I was ahead of the curve,” he boasted backstage after the show.
And so the curve he threw into his fall collection was to supersize his chic tailoring and gentlemanly sportswear. “It feels refreshing to wear something that has a bit of movement,” Grant said, his tall frame enveloped in a billowing shirt and roomy, single-pleat trousers, silhouettes that recurred on the runway to a churning soundtrack of S’Express, Sylvester and Eurythmics. “It’s simple stuff: It’s just got a bit more ease.”
Enveloping coats — an emerging trend on London runways — included slouchy wool and cashmere trenches with the epaulettes leaking down the deltoids, and handsome, gently boxy double-breasted coats with demonstrative lapels.
Bubble-shaped popovers in lustrous wools were a dressy take on the shell suits of the breakdancing era, exemplifying Grant’s knack for transposing retro silhouettes into quiet, luxurious clothes with a dash of swagger.