This stalwart of Savile Row has loosened up. The brand’s new head of design Darren Barrowcliff — sporting a black suit, T-shirt and beanie — stitched cargo pockets onto the legs of gray flannel suits and patch pockets onto double-breasted jackets. He styled them all with fine knitwear, heightening the laid-back feel.


He tossed away the bow tie and tucked a scarf into the neck of a tuxedo jacket, and set it off with white sneakers.


Classic coats were updated — and abbreviated — as in a thigh-length herringbone number that was belted at the waist, or a short coat with a magnified twill weave and wide lapels. “It’s about versatility — what guys are doing today is dressing down formal and dressing up casual,” said Barrowcliff.


Indeed, most of the models were in beanies, even the one sporting dinner jackets in lustrous cashmere. “I love my beanie. You have to wear something when it’s cold,” Barrowcliff shrugged.

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