Kilgour creative director Carlo Brandelli was transparent about how much work and craft go into Savile Row tailoring. Mounting his fall presentation at the brand’s Savile Row store, he hung hand-cut translucent drafting paper patterns alongside the collection.

 

“In one bespoke space you have the design work, every actual pattern piece that the collection is made from, and of course this season’s pieces,” he explained.

 

Looks ranged from bespoke suits to coats with clean, minimalist silhouettes. Among standouts were soft alpaca overcoats with “architectural stand shawl collars,” a term dubbed by the label to refer to a structured collar. Coats came in hues of gray and black.

 

Brandelli also introduced a new “impression-angled evening collar,” which resembled an inverted tuxedo lapel into the lineup.