Androgyny was the common thread — or should we say, swipe of eyeliner — across the three emerging talents selected for this seasonal showcase, established in 2005 by Topman and Fashion East.
The buzziest, Wales Bonner, also smudged rouge across the faces of her models, who paraded in fey takes on Seventies leisurewear — silky suits with flare-legged pants, knit tracksuits spangled with crystals and shells, and pinch-waist coats with the lobe-like lapels that J.W. Anderson has championed. The audience, which included singer FKA Twigs, roared with approval.
Rory Parnell Mooney, returning for a third season, inserted a communion wafer in his show notes and splashed the words “Repent” and “Nancy Boy” on his usual monastic layers — not enough to freshen a look fast going stale.
Charles Jeffrey went whole hog with his androgynous club kids, sending out one model with long dreadlocks in a silk slipdress and drag makeup. “Nina Hagen,” one guest wryly observed. Someone will knock off his Aran knits with insertions of printed carrier-bag plastic faster than you can say “Loverboy,” the name of his monthly London party.