Sebastiaan Pieter’s fall collection was a subversive one, miles away the mild-mannered minimalism of last season and less refined than his previous efforts.


Gay fetishes were the central theme, inspired by a photograph by Robert Mapplethorpe of two men, one wearing a leather motorcycle jacket holding a chain connected to the leather collar of a leather-clad friend.


Models stood in suggestive poses wearing clothes in a palette of black, gray and burgundy, with highlights of red and white. A sweater emblazoned with the word “cruise” and a T-shirt bearing “HH,” standing for “high and horny,” were nods to sexual escapades, while straps on shirt sleeves suggested bondage.


The best of this unusual offering was a padded wool vest worn over a matching long-sleeve T-shirt and classic-cut wool trousers.