With lightness as his leitmotif for fall, Andrea Pompilio stripped the wardrobe of his nine-to-fivers of any excessive weight he could get his hands on. His trick? “Ninety-nine percent of the [looks] are double-faced,” he explained backstage before the show. This helped keep structures delicate — even in the case of outerwear, spanning the gamut from airy, double-breasted woolen overcoats with large lapels to shearling anoraks with maxi-pockets and velvet bombers.
The brand’s tailoring felt fresh amid this season’s predominantly languid dressing. Pompilio kept the interest level high via a run of studied office looks made of knitted vests and matching gloves worn over the long sleeves of crisp white and light blue shirts, which created moderately curved tops tucked neatly into slim-fit carrot pants.
Concentrating on dark shades of blue, brown and green, the collection also had pops of orange and yellow — as seen on feathery silk scarves that were knotted into ties, exuding a nerdy yet sensual flair like the rest of the lineup.