Platform 22, Milano Centrale. Under the imposing steel canopies of the city’s main railway station — “my favorite building in Milan,” as he revealed pre-show — is where Damir Doma presented his fall offering, set against the graphic red and gray lines of an express train bound for, well, conquest. This was not a blitz action, though, but a well-considered rendition of Doma’s very individual, very personal approach to design: conceptual, ascetic and sprinkled with Nineties references. Following his move to Milan and the merger of his men’s and women’s lines, this was his first collection fully managed out of Italy. And Doma was in a generous mood, playing with volumes and proportions. He forbade his design team to sketch this season — “we did everything on the bust” — and the lineup’s sculptural character came through via round and roomy full-body coats, subtle handmade embellishments and soft wrappings, as seen on belted kimono coats for both men and women. Wide, cropped pants worn over elongated rib-knit cashmere sweaters adorned with ribbon braids felt on trend, as did the Asian influences.
Despite a severe palette of mostly black and white, the collection advertised a strong commercial season for the brand.