Giorgio Armani opened his Emporio Armani show with a salute to David Bowie: He played a recording of the late singer live in concert before the show began, and opened it with models decked in silver foil skiwear that had a Space Age feel.
In the collection that followed, the softest pieces were strongest. Nobody does ease like Armani, and he excelled with a light gray coat, worn with a wide fabric scarf; a dark gray trench, and a shearling the color of salt and pepper.
A lineup of knits, including body-hugging chenille ones with motorcycle-style side zips; cozy trousers and elongated cardigans, and crew necks covered with broken geometric shapes, were also among the winners in a collection that focused on a palette of mainly gray and blue.
Armani also plugged into this season’s trend for embellishment, sticking tone-on-tone patches onto a black bomber jacket, and little leather cutout shapes onto jackets and coats.
In a strong season for trousers — which have ranged this week from wide and roomy to slim and cuffed — his carrot pants seemed out of step. His wide jeans — inspired by sailor pants — looked fresh, but the big leather ones with cuffs looked like supersize chaps.