Giorgio Armani described his mood as fearless, sending out a fall collection of “pieces I love,” including body-hugging jackets, trousers that flatter the calf, and soft waves of color. “At times I’ve been afraid to be myself, but with this collection, I was myself,” he said.
The collection was filled with understated fabrics and subtle textures. None of the furs — with the exception of the chunky shearling coats — were real, but made instead from cleverly treated fabric, as in a short coat with a dramatic fur shawl collar, and a long tailored one with fuzzy lapels and lining.
Silhouettes were fluid, long and lean, while trousers ranged from carrot to cropped to athletic-inspired that gathered like a knitted sleeve at the ankle, or were more loose around the bottom. Jackets were fitted, and sweater-jackets took center stage in both double and single-breasted versions. A brown knit baseball jacket looked great layered over a suit, as did floor-length shawl tops with sleeves worn with more tailored looks.
Workwear — an Armani signature — came in the form of cropped, boxy pinstripe suit jackets. But in a Milan season where the runways have been packed with Armani-esque touches — especially soft tailoring fused with sportswear references — one expected the Maestro to seize the moment more firmly.