Lucio Vanotti, who is known for his spare, streamlined silhouettes, remained true to form with a collection that was filled with draping and loose, fluid forms. Before the show, Vanotti said he was aiming for “relaxed rigor” and had been looking in particular at military clothing and Buddhist monks’ robes.
Vanotti, an admirer of Giorgio Armani, was the guest designer in the Maestro’s show space on via Bergognone, where looks included a roomy ankle-length coat with a magnified windowpane check, an oversize army green varsity jacket, and a breezy bathrobe coat belted high on the waist.
Jackets — some of them sleeveless — were long and lean and layered over narrow trousers, some with elastic gatherings around the ankles. Other trousers, and shorts, were loose with wide legs. Some were paired with lightweight wool blankets, draped elegantly over models’ shoulders.
A hip-length herringbone wool jacket layered over a matching sarong-style skirt reflected the spirit of this clean-lined, laid-back collection.