Marcelo Burlon summoned the great spirits of the north, south, east and west in a shamanic ceremony preceding his folklore-inspired collection, as cleansing incense and the live sounds of a hang instrument filled the room. It was the ideal setting for a — literally — spirited collection.


Born as a T-shirt label, Marcelo Burlon County of Milan, as the brand goes by its full name, has evolved into a complete wardrobe, serving both genders. For fall, the designer went out of his comfort zone, mixing his beloved, albeit repetitive, street-style staples with utilitywear, tailoring and solid outerwear options. There were tunic shirts matched with vinyl rave pants. Elongated big-knit sweaters and cardigans — and in one instance an oversized twin-set styled with a baggy pant — occasionally came in wild bursts of orange. Another orange full-denim look, featuring a jacket with cut-off sleeves, hopped on the trend mill, telegraphing a Nineties feel. Burlon also upped the ante in the fabrics department, as he embroidered his bombers and maxi ponchos with tribal insignia.

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