A coat can make or break a look and Massimo Piombo seems astutely aware of that. The designer’s spirited collection aimed at the city slicker was almost exclusively based on the coat, rendered in a handsome potpourri of patterns, cuts and colors.
There were double-breasted numbers in brushed wool with braided leather buttons; textured dinner jackets with satin lapels that Piombo styled with undulating ponchos for a heightened allure, and clever combos made of bathrobe-y coats worn over matching vests — both wildly colored — in lieu of common suits.
Piombo quoted Diane Vreeland as saying that “too much taste was boring,” wanting to bridge “the gap between fashion and classic” instead. This was particularly true for his unconventional couture fabrics, which included hand-braided wool boasting geometric patterns and mohair-alpaca mixes spun from space-dyed yarn done in orange, green and white on one item, blue and blush pink on another.
For the first time, the designer presented a full women’s line, which offered the gamut of men’s styles rendered in smaller sizes and more fitted cuts.
It all had a natural charm that was true to Piombo’s eccentric and retro-tinged aesthetic.