John Elliott is experimenting with his dark side. Although the collection started with a few monochromatic white looks, it quickly turned more somber.


“We’ve told the story about movement and athletics, but this is about friction and the uncertainty that exists at night,” he said backstage before the show.


The largest chapter in Elliott’s new story came through the use of a novelty wool bonded with aluminum that worked best in heavyweight bombers, pants and shorts. Other protective elements felt more familiar, including his traditional layering techniques, military references and relaxed silhouettes.


A good example was a parachute jacket worn over a shearling hoodie and an elongated distressed T-shirt. Another standout was a leather patchwork poncho paired with aluminum shorts and textured tights with a chunky scarf.


Elliott said he had three goals for the collection. “If I can come up with a challenging concept, create different silhouettes and put them in unique fabrics, then I’ll be able to sleep at night.”


Sleep tight, John Elliott.