Each season, Tim Coppens has been slowly moving beyond his athletic roots and toward more traditional references. However, his obsession with the young continues.


“I feel more comfortable about what I do,” he said, “less contrived and constricted.”


For his fall collection, Coppens showed this spirit by taking references from Eighties, Nineties and Aughts youth culture and interpreting them in tartan plaid bomber jackets, printed hooded sweatshirts and pajama shirts with pixilated graphics of spaceship video games.


An elegant array of military topcoats – the showstoppers – along with utilitarian jackets and peacoats offered a more sophisticated and retail-friendly side.


The women’s effort was equally strong, with A-line, bonded leather skirts styled with bombers worn over hoodies. Although the Tim Coppens girl is youthful, the pieces appealed to a sophisticated customer who’s looking for special items.


Coppens also showed his business-savvy by revealing that several of the pieces in the show would immediately be available for sale on his Web site.


With this collection, Coppens vaulted near the top of the leader board of New York Fashion Week: Men’s.