Alexandre Mattiussi found himself in a tricky position for fall. On the one hand he felt effected by “the sad events that happened in Paris,” referring to last November’s terrorist attacks. On the other hand, he wanted to convey a feel-good atmosphere, assuring himself and his friends for whom he famously designs the line that “the sun will rise again.”
Naturally, the collection strayed in both directions.
Although the show opened with a variation on AMI’s bestselling look — the friendly camel coat with matching roomy pleated trouser — the mood quickly turned dark via a somber palette of steel gray, midnight blue as well as black-on-black patterns.
Mattiussi didn’t forget to tick any of the quintessential AMI boxes: the loosely fitted street suit was there, along with the cool bomber and no-nonsense knitted sweater.
It’s also helpful when one’s own trademarks, such as the shearling jacket or checkered overcoat, are suddenly trending.
This season’s fabric experiments seemed a testament to AMI’s rapidly growing business. Satin bonded pants — half-tuxedo, half baggy trouser — were cool. Extra-heavy, full-on sequined pants and car coats seemed a bit much.