“I feel like I’m at a standoff at high noon,” commented Dallas Cowboys wide receiver Brice Butler, who was seated front row at Berluti’s Western-themed show. With models traversing a dusty runway and the theme of “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly” playing in the background, one could easily think so.
The show was inspired by a road trip the house’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori took to Marfa, Tex., its landscape serving as a mood board for this season’s palette, which included cactus-flower violet and a rusty orange. “We recreated all the colors from the samples of the desert,” explained Sartori, who documented them meticulously with his camera. Tattoo artist Scott Campbell, meanwhile, who has inked celebrities such as Marc Jacobs and Robert Downey Jr., provided the geometric motifs etched, sewn or embroidered onto the lineup’s many leather looks, including car coats, blousons and bombers. Cut from shirt-weight calfskin, they looked strong. Elsewhere, the custom-made patterns reappeared as embellishments on copper-reinforced lace-ups and loafers — Berluti’s city-friendly take on the cowboy boot.
Silhouettes were calm and considered. Sartori juxtaposed a roomy carrot trouser, cut short to reveal the ankle and provide a better glimpse of the footwear, with a boxy double-breasted blazer (casually worn, unbuttoned), kimono-shaped coat or capelike cardigan on top.