After a color extravaganza for spring, Gosha Rubchinskiy reverted to a more somber palette for his fall collection, shown in a run-down theater in the north of Paris where a smoke machine was working overtime.
(Full disclosure: Guests who arrived 25 minutes after the official start time found the doors shut, so this review is based on photographs.)
The Moscow-based streetwear darling cast his usual gang of pale-faced teens to walk the show in outfits that looked like they were stolen from their fathers’ closets. Their skinny frames drowned in oversize shearling jackets, wide-leg jogging pants and logo T-shirts tucked into high-waisted jeans.
The Comme des Garçons protégé has gained a cult following for his post-Soviet aesthetic, with fans including rapper A$AP Rocky. The most interesting items were those with an unexpected twist, like the dropped armholes on the final look, a black sweatshirt that suddenly took on the elegance of a cape.