It’s hard to decipher the exact formula behind the simplicity and refinement of Pierre Mahéo’s arresting collections. None of the silhouettes — be it the classic alpaca sweater or slim-fitted trouser — cry “Hey, look at me,” and yet each item adds to a head-turning look.
For fall, the designer turned to slimmer pants, which came in a handsome mix of silver grey denim, taupe corduroy or olive wool, made just a tad shorter at the ankle for a sharper, younger look; crewneck sweaters were cut a tiny bit lower to reveal a glimpse of the Mao-collared white Oxford shirt underneath; while the raglan shoulder — a traditionally athletic construction — gave an overcoat the agility of a sweater.
Elsewhere, Mahéo played up his knack for fabrics, tailoring a midnight blue coat from an old woolen cloth he discovered in Austria. “It’s so dry, it’s meant to resist anything. It was really made to last,” the designer noted after the show, with the soundtrack — a nostalgic rendition of the “Inner City Blues” — playing in the background. It was the perfect match for this urbane and thoughtful collection.