Voluptuous: A word seldom heard in men’s wear, but a trenchant summation for a mesmerizing fall collection from Rick Owens, who provided the descriptor backstage. Thanks, Rick!
The designer also talked about “dripping lines” and “globs of draping,” also vivid terminology for his mammoth mohair sweaters and whorled shearling tops, spilling down the front of the body like thick pudding. Thanks again!
Almost every exit hinged on elephantine pants done in stiff fabrics, giving models a Frankenstein countenance. Turns out the 1960 French-Italian horror movie “Eyes Without a Face” was among references for the show, which was staged in the austere concrete underbelly of the Palais de Tokyo museum.
“I’ve always loved that movie. It’s creepy and sweet and haunting and elegant,” Owens said. “And those are all things I would want my collection to be.”
The giant trousers — some sprouting bulbous cargo pockets, others streaked as if spilled with paint — will not be for everyone. Nor his twisting, hairy caveman tops sprouting sleevelike protuberances.
But his sleek tailoring could open the door to a new swath of customers. You’d be hard pressed to find a cooler trenchcoat than his, the sleeves cut narrow and the storm shield cupping the back tautly.
Shrunken double-breasted jackets were a new and striking proportion for Owens, master of the knee-length T-shirt. Ditto for his snug shearling bombers with hoods that unzip down the middle to let the clipped fur splay on the shoulders.
Creepy, no. Voluptuous, yes.