Gothic, techno, punk, streetwear, medieval, lunatic asylum, fetishism. These were all words brought to mind by this intriguing men’s collection from Glenn Martens at Y/Project. Shown in the same dark disco club basement as last season, the collection was a step further into the dark universe of the Flemish designer. Affirming the aesthetic he has developed over the two last seasons, his louche male lineup shares some of the same chill of the underground that brands such as Hood by Air and Vetements have injected into the fashion landscape lately.
The collection was big on denim but in distorted proportions, such as in extralong pants scrunched into little leather loafers or the elongated sleeves of jean jackets turned up at the arm. The same kind of disturbing treatment was applied to big bombers with protuberances and zips crawling on the silhouette. There was also a little air of sexual fetishism in oversize chaps in denim or leather over matching pants.
Martens played with texture, as in sheepskin jackets and denim tops and pants made of frayed edge bands of fabrics sewn together vertically to give a hairy volume.
Beside the street vibe, Martens offered some sharp tailoring in a floor length lean gray coat that made the model look like a gothic priest or a tailored jacket opened and tight in the back like a straight jacket.
The Flemish primitive painting portraits adorned with blue pencil tribal tattoos that served as the show invitation were also printed on T-shirts. Except for an out-of-place red rose embroidery black tulle shirt, the entire effort was pure Glenn Martens.