“Finished and unfinished” was the theme of Ivan Mandzukic’s Ivanman collection for fall, and he quite literally showed his workings by covering several looks in the markings of a dressmaker’s pattern. Colorful lines and measurements traversed a number of pieces — from a boxy, cropped wool jacket with matching fitted pants, a white down coat and even threaded through hand-knit sweaters.

Mandzukic told WWD he wanted to strike a more serious note with his tailoring. “When you make a suit, it has to be perfect. I really believe in good collaborations, which is why I worked with Berlin made-to-measure tailors Monokel.”  The designer focused on just one color this season — purple — and from bright lavender to plum, there was a purple shade for all seasons. Oversized winter coats and jackets were out in force, but some items seemed intended for warmer months or climes. The white cotton waffle weave pieces certainly matched the Berlin winter snow, but are probably more appropriate for spring. Or, some might suggest, pre-fall, if temperatures are as unseasonably warm as they were last September.

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