Considering the buzz that streetwear is enjoying, Astrid Andersen — a designer who’s long experimented with the codes of that world — has an aesthetic that’s particularly of the moment.
And it’s a look that she continues to evolve. This season, she continued to turn out her signature tough, bulked-up silhouettes, but this time a sense of opulence and delicacy came through, too. Designing for a muse who’s clearly confident enough in his masculinity to experiment with a little flamboyance, Andersen sent out extravagant outerwear — such as parkas in glistening, royal blue fur — which contrasted with almost feminine pieces, among them billowing silk shirts, robes, and draped silk pants in a painterly feather print.
This tension between the masculine and feminine — and the ultraluxurious mood of the lineup, with tracksuits in velvet and corduroy, in a palette of burnished hues — marked an appealing development of Andersen’s label. And given that the grungy, pared-back side of the Nineties has made a fashion comeback, Andersen’s collection suggests that the bling of the late Nineties hip-hop scene could be next.