After watching an episode of “Who Do You Think You Are” — the Cheryl Cole edition — Craig Green learned that fishermen of yore used to spend years apart from their families in pursuit of their quarries. This got him thinking about the sea, which, in turn, led him to considerations of peril, fear and isolation.
References to fishermen could be seen in downturned hats that tied under the chin and the drawstrings at the waists of tailored jackets and coats. Thick tweed jackets and coats came double-belted with thick ropelike belts — reminiscent of lifelines used to stop crew members from being washed overboard in high seas.
Green’s collections often read “warrior monk” and fall’s offering was his strongest yet, in a muted palette of navy, taupe, muddy lilac, khaki and black.
The group of looks that Green said were inspired by the inside of old-fashioned deep-sea-diving suits was the highlight. Some were embroidered with patterns inspired, Green said, by Irish pub carpets, but actually looked Ottoman, heightening the Eastern vibe. Free-hanging panels and layers gave the effect of undone armor, with vambraces and guard braces dangling alongside breast plates and priestly tabards.
The closing looks looked handsomely arctic ready as puffy bandoliers contrasted with hooded coats or jackets and matching pants.