Katie Eary’s collection was an unapologetically glam celebration of London’s Soho circa 1970 — in particular the milieu of strip-club and property entrepreneur Paul Raymond.
Men’s and women’s designs played on the louche mood that characterized Raymond’s world, with the designer taking her cues from what she described in her show notes as the “barely there wardrobe” of “Pyjama Tops,” one of Raymond’s theatrical productions. The loud colors and prints of the Seventies were on full display: Silk robes came in graphic, geometric patterns in clashing shades of peach, brown and orange, while an orange lizard print appeared on purple silk pajama bottoms.
But the designs’ clean, simple lines kept the look fun and modern, rather than simply costume-y. Fuzzy shearling coats were cut close to the body and paired with slim, tailored pants, while some inventive knitwear offered a new interpretation of that Seventies palette. One boxy knit sweater came in ombré shades of russet, with a cutout detail at the neckline, with a women’s version in graduated whites and pinks, and trimmed with a smattering of marabou feathers.