KTZ’s Marjan Pejoski drew from a wide range of references for his fall collection, calling on themes of spirituality, sexual subcultures, motocross, Ancient Greek soldiers’ uniforms and Scottish kilts in an outing that took streetwear to new levels of intricacy.
Lacing, on shoes and corsetry, was the collection’s overarching motif, a literal reference, said Pejoski, to the pressures of modern life, which served to constrict volumes via girdles for both men and women that cinched the silhouette over sweatshirts, jackets or dresses.
Working from a typically restrained palette of just black, white and khaki, white laces ran up the legs of trousers and leggings and down seams of cropped black sweatshirts and hoodies like skeletons. There were full skirts for men, worn with trim bomber jackets — a dramatic effect — but Pejoski’s best play on the masculine-feminine divide came in a tonal khaki look that had a sweat with sleeves printed in a foulard paisley under a boxy tee, teamed with a flat-front miniskirt that looked butcher than it sounds, a tasseled shawl over the shoulders and superskinny pants. Sounds wrong but it worked.