Charles Jeffrey’s Loverboy made the grandest statement at the Topman-sponsored Man group show for emerging designers Friday afternoon. Mud-caked dancers from London’s Theo Adams Company opened his show, which the designer said he’d envisaged as a romp “through time and space.”
That prelude set the scene for some extravagant designs that mused on what the designer called “the excesses of society,” such as a pin-striped jacket worn with a matching mini kilt, or coats in rich, jewel toned velvet with brocade detailing. Strange apparitions — such as a walking clay pot and a volcanolike sculpture, all crafted by set designer Gary Card — punctuated the proceedings, underlining the collection’s unabashedly esoteric mood.
Feng Chen Wang also mined a more-is-more aesthetic via supersized proportions. The Chinese-born designer name-checked Jenny Saville’s paintings of fleshy bodies as an inspiration. A lemon yellow leather jacket came puffy and pumped up, with a multilayered hood sprouting from its back, while leisure suits came in billowing silks.
In contrast, Per Götesson took a more pared-back, grungy approach with his take on pajama dressing. Oversized pajamas came in red cotton plaid, while a raw-edged, indigo denim coat was cut to resemble a robe. Heightening the just-rolled-out-of-bed allure of the clothes, some of the models carried pillow-shaped clutch bags.