Markus Lupfer played with contrasts for his fall collection, with clashing fabrics and aesthetics, tailoring and streetwear.
Drawing inspiration from a trip he took to Berlin in 1989, just as the wall came down, Lupfer wanted to emphasize the culture clash he experienced at the time, focusing on functionality and military elements.
He paired track pants with more sophisticated turtleneck sweaters and tailored pieces, while coats came in a variety of contrasting fabrics such as checked wool and padded nylon.
Outerwear — a growing category for Lupfer’s men’s wear business — was particularly strong and varied. Looks ranged from cropped jackets with military-inspired oversized pockets, to metallic puffer coats, to sporty nylon bombers with camouflage embroidery. One of the standout pieces was an oversized tailored coat with streetwear-inspired elements in the form of padded, gathered sleeves.
Lupfer also focused on fabric development, working with a manufacturer in Scotland to develop his own tartan. The plaid featured across tailored coats and skinny trousers. He also updated classic black tailored trousers with a crinkled crepe fabric.
In contrast to his colorful women’s collection, the palette came in somber, dark tones of chocolate brown, camel and navy, as the designer said he wanted to take a more minimal sophisticated turn for his men’s outing.