“I just wanted to do much tougher clothing, much more interesting and straightforward — clothing for boys,” Oliver Spencer said backstage after his show Saturday afternoon.

This was a handsome, unfussy lineup as Spencer worked simple silhouettes in rich, natural fabrics. Gray, Prince of Wales check wool was fashioned into relaxed coats, along with cropped, tailored pants and matching bomber jackets. And the designer’s slim suiting came in in heavy wool in autumnal shades of brown and forest green, the jackets cut with short, Nehru-style collars.

And as Spencer noted that music — particularly ska — is “always” an influence on his work, a hint of Britain’s music culture came through in the collection. Oversized sweaters with chevron stripes had punk airs, while velvet bomber jackets in deep red and gold-green telegraphed a hint of flamboyance. But when paired with loosely tailored pants, heavy, lace-up boots, and knitted beanie hats, they looked resolutely masculine.

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