While a plethora of colors and prints — from psychedelic patterns to rave-inspired colorblocking — stood out in Topman Design’s lineup, those exuberant elements were tempered with hardy men’s wear fabrics, infusing the collection with a muted, almost melancholic air.
With touchstones that spanned British travelers to rugged dockworkers and Nineties ravers, there was a mismatched, piled-on feel to the looks. The silhouettes were ultra-slouchy: roomy, track-pant-style bottoms came in heavy gray, pin-stripe wool, and were worn with high-tech sneakers and glittery knit sweaters, while there were oversize wool coats in a blown-up, black and pink check.
A sense of punkish rebellion wove its way into the mix, too, with mohair sweaters embellished with scores of silver rings, while quilted track pant and bomber jacket combos — in searing shades of orange and pink — brought to mind up-all-night clubbers. But the models’ lank, greasy hair and tough demeanor kept the look edgy rather than upbeat.
Though the mix of references sometimes felt a bit helter-skelter, this collection brimmed with an infectiously youthful, experimental attitude.