For fall, Chinese designer Xander Zhou looked first to the traditional tailoring worn by bankers the world over — blazer, vest, shirt, tie and trousers — and threw in nods to Chairman Mao-style workwear, traditional kimonos, military uniforms, Japanese porn, lab coats and kung fu for a collection that put a fresh futuristic spin on mundane uniform dressing.
The neo-Wall Street looks that opened the show involved cropped shirts worn under even shorter sweater vests and ties (yes, abs on display). A silver trenchcoat was a fun addition to a black suit, while the layering experiments continued with a nice black leather car coat worn over a striped shirt and cropped vest.
He used Japanese denim treated with bleach for a lived-in look in a big boxy overcoat and an interesting pair of high-waisted trousers that were worn with a bare chest, but would look great worn with a fine cashmere knit on the street.
Some kimono coats in stiff leather didn’t quite hit the mark but Zhou’s shearling pieces, like a cropped jacket with outsized flight collar, was more bankable.