For Ximon Lee’s fall collection, presented by GQ China in London, Lee examined the notion of the conscious and unconscious with regard to shame. It was Lee’s first show in London. The Chinese-Korean designer has previously presented his collections in Paris.
The show, which he called “Shame,” also addressed ugliness, beauty and vulnerability. “I think the co-existence of beauty and ugly were really interesting,” said Lee. “I was really intrigued by it.”
Known for his extreme silhouettes and handmade constructions, Lee’s used pearls and brocade for shirting and jackets, giving his oversized shapes a softer feel. Pearl beaded details were scattered over sheer panels on a long black shirt and matching trousers.
“My mom was single and liked to wear a lot of pearls,” he said. “I didn’t allow her to wear a pearl necklace. To me, they made her look vulnerable and I didn’t like that feeling. As well as other people in society that are dressing up in a sweet way. It’s putting them in a vulnerable position – especially at night or in a bar.”
There was also a rich brocade – created from an oil painting of a nude woman with an angel – cast onto a long coat that was layered over roomy khaki pants and a scarf. Tailoring was a new direction for the designer with models wearing suiting and long overcoats that were loose and languid – in line with his aesthetic.