The Damir Doma guy is a lover not a fighter. The designer — through his signature slouchy proportions centered on robe coats and jackets in earthy tones that wrapped around the body — continued to refine the wardrobe of his romantic-dreamer protagonist, folding in quiet decorative accents like ethnic embroideries and bleached velvet ties that flowed from looks.
The big-volume paper bag trousers added a street twist and were paired with distressed knits that felt very “now.” A cropped wide pant worn with a kimono-style double-breasted jacket offered a new, minimal-monastic take on the suit.
Doma through texture and a range of fabric treatments — from blasted buffalo hide and silvered corduroy to bleach-splattered satin — paid ode to the “trace of the human hand.”
Marking the designer’s second co-ed collection, ideas flowed naturally between the two parts with languid black satin bombers, split paper bag trench skirts, and the same wrapping feel played out on asymmetric dresses in melange striped wool or burnt amber crushed velvet, with pretty side knots. The bold necklaces, based on semiprecious stones embedded in resin by Sculpture Berlin, were lovely. Ditto for the minimalist silk dress in bicolor satin and velvet.