Diesel Black Gold headed east in this urban, outerwear-rich collection, revisiting its signature pieces through a martial arts filter. Andreas Melbostad paired soft, sarouel-inspired pants with a range of hybrid outerwear pieces including bombers and slim bikers with kimono necklines, quilted leather kimono coats and aviators mixing a traditional Japanese indigo fabric and quilted nylon.
Tailored wool lent a sartorial, structured edge to the collection, like on the line’s big-volume trousers. The footwear included ninja and biker boots while denim came tricked with embroideries of Japanese monograms and symbols.
“I was looking at Japanese designers in the late Seventies and early Eighties and there was a lot of this kind of tunic attitude,” said the designer, who also explored the concept in an injection of nine outfits from a new 50-piece women’s capsule introduced at the show. The line, which will be presented alongside men’s in the brand’s showroom, carries the same theme and fabrications (think denim tunics crafted with quilted nylon inserts, printed shirts and long, pleated pinafore dresses and leather minis).