Isaia creative director Gianluca Isaia doesn’t like to take himself too seriously. Sporting a lavish blonde wig, the designer commissioned costumed opera singers and harpists to entertain guests at the house’s presentation, an homage to San Leucio, an ancient village in the north of Naples that was transformed into a royal silk factory in the 18th century.
Powdered wig-coiffed waiters proffering trays of risotto circled through the space as guests took in a sampling of new looks from the Neapolitan tailor’s sportswear and tailoring lines. Highlights included a super-elegant gray and green three-piece suit in a lightweight Donegal tweed, a double-breasted suit in a gray and bordeaux check based on an archive cloth from the Thirties, and a cinched-waist overcoat with suede details in the lining. Not forgetting elements with silk woven through, such as a chunky aubergine cable knit.
The collection’s leitmotif was a pattern combining the house’s coral logo with a diamond-shaped, argyle-style design that featured on the floors connecting the workers’ quarters in San Leucio to the factory. The pattern surfaced on everything from the knitwear to down vests to the melton cloth on the underside of jacket collars.
The line’s color story flushed from camel — a new hue for the firm, used to inject a utilitarian mood — and gray, green and blue to warm rust and bordeaux tones.