This is a transitional season at Jil Sander, which is said to have tapped Lucie and Luke Meier as the new creative directors of women’s and men’s, respectively, succeeding Rodolfo Paglialunga. The existing internal creative team had the responsibility of designing the fall collection, which actually turned out to be interesting and well executed. “Independent People,” Halldor Laxness’ book telling the story of the fight of humans against nature, inspired the lineup, which was meant to deliver a sense of protection. Sweaters and coats were layered with garments recalling bulletproof vests, while a parka had a functional detachable capelet. There was an essential sartorial attitude that informed the narrow tailored coats, as well as the suits showing new proportions — jackets were elongated and pants were cut cropped and slightly flared. Minimal puffers introduced a sporty feel, also enhanced by the oversize hooded coat crafted from Icelandic shearling and featuring a side slit for extra comfort. It was a cohesive collection focused on a very masculine, sleek aesthetic.