“It’s just a reference, an inspiration, I like the design, but I am not a warmonger,” pointed out Rosso, who is the son of Diesel founder Renzo Rosso and first launched the brand in 2015 as a line of restyled vintage military clothes.
For fall, he collaborated with designer Teppei Sugaya, blending Italian and Japanese references into the “Bas-Ito” collection, a name derived from their towns of origin, Bassano and Mito.
Holograms and a high-tech presentation contrasted with the setting of the event at Milan’s storied 18th-century building housing the Military Academy. For the urban and functional collection, Rosso took cues from the structure of military equipment and heavy artillery, details that he reproduced on the clothes. For example, the fenders of a Japanese tank were translated into the reinforced pockets of pants with a cropped silhouette reminiscent of those used by soldiers in Japan. A sleeve on a jacket was decorated with a zippered pocket showing stitching recalling a Japanese machine gun.