Pal Zileri seamstresses quickly forgot the stage fright caused by working in front of retailers and press that had come to see the brand’s installation at Milan’s storied Rotonda della Besana.
Sewing away to show 12 of the 180 steps needed to make a Pal Zileri jacket, the artisans were flanked by the models, who walked and posed under the row of columned arches of the late Baroque landmark. Mirrored screens in the background reflected the images and added a modern element to the scene.
“This is the first slow fashion show,” quipped creative director Mauro Ravizza Krieger, referring to the models pausing in their walk and to the pace of the format, which allowed to “see what’s behind” the collection.
The designer conceived a range of pieces that are meant to be mixed and matched. “The research of fabrics in our archives allowed us to spin-off different designs from a common origin,” he said. Chalk stripes, houndstooth, glen plaids, bouclé Prince of Wales, velvet and dammer were reproduced either on a deconstructed coat in alpaca wool or for a seamless thermo-soldered puffer. “The silhouettes are relaxed and softly tailored yet sleek because we want our customer to feel easy and laid-back,” noted Ravizza Krieger. Silk turtlenecks were worn under double-breasted suits or striped shirts. Winter grays, black and white were lit up by touches of golden mustard, burnt orange or wine red. Shearling was used in hoods or into cropped jackets and coats.
This is the first collection presented under chief executive officer Giovanni Mannucci, who was tapped by Pal Zileri owner Mayhoola Group last fall. Mannucci’s intention is to steer the brand into a more contemporary territory and the fall collection was in sync with this strategy.