Phillip Lim is taking a different approach this season to showcase his fall men’s collection.
Rather than a runway show in Paris, the designer opted for a reportage approach, photographing his friend, the model Paolo Roldan, as he self-styled the collection.
In a walk-through at his New York showroom, Lim said the idea was to “romance reality” this season with a wearable collection of wardrobe basics that could be dressed up or dressed down, depending on the occasion. That shone through in the images of Roldan, who mixed and matched his favorites from the line for the photos that the company will use in place of a show.
“I wanted to bring the clothes closer to the man, so I asked Paolo to just go for it — free rein. He has such an instinctual spontaneity in the way he connects to clothes, a unique perspective that brings out a fresh, sophisticated street elegance,” Lim said.
He described the line as “not a show collection, but a closet,” he said.
Among the highlights was a luxurious parka in camel with a drawstring waist. The same fabric was used for a soft blazer with no shoulder construction, a long shirt that could double as a sport coat, high-waisted trousers and joggers. A toggle ranch coat with a shearling collar was a standout as well.
But Lim had some fun too, emblazoning a bowler jacket with a spirit animal print on the reverse, and adding the initials NBD for No Big Deal on the back of a traditional trench and embroidering WTF — Wednesday, Thursday, Friday — on other pieces.
The collection featured several reversible items, such as souvenir jackets and lounge pants, and while highly commercial, it also hit many key trends with its camp shirts and velour joggers, T-shirts and sweatshirts.
Lim also tried his hand at denim, offering up a slightly padded jacket with a flannel lining and a fake fur collar in a black wash.
The large collection successfully bridged the gap between dressy and casual and provided a bevy of wardrobe options for today’s man.
“I just want to reach out and reset what a man is,” Lim said. Mission accomplished.