Assembly New York once again delivered clean lines and proportions for its fall collection as designer Greg Armas looked to the label’s past seasons and the current market to identity what the New York-based brand represents.

“It was meant to be reactive,” said Armas.

The lineup consisted of wool-blended cashmere car coats, quilted bombers, boxy cropped jackets, service striped trousers that resembled those of Fed-Ex workers, and a super-relaxed leather and suede parka paired with wide-leg sweatpants. But Armas also looked outside New York for inspiration, offering a few Japanese influences on tops, including the Japanese character number 1 on a red knit and a subtle in-yo (yin and yang symbol) on the back of the bomber. Looks were paired with Doc Martens shoes.

Outerwear remained a strong suit for the brand, which turned to interesting hardware details such as fireman closures on a fitted peacoat, removable leather buttons for the car coats and heavy gold extra-large zippers for the parka to enhance the silhouette and up its cool quotient.

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