After a three-season absence, Patrik Ervell returned to the show circuit with a collection that once again celebrated youth subculture — in this case, the early Nineties British rave scene.

The underground references came out loud and clear in a well-edited lineup that included a variety of embroidered pullovers with paneling details, zip-up mock-neck sweaters and cropped sturdy leather pants.

“This is a moment where there’s a romance about the future,” he said backstage. That love affair translated into the use of soft pink — a trend for the season — in sweatshirts and cropped puffers. Also, the use of mohair spoke to the softness of the offering while elevating the collection.

The celebration of the Nineties era seems to be on every designer’s mind this season but Ervell’s expertise on the subject brought a more authentic dimension.

“It’s the future borrowed from the past,” he said.

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