“I do sincerely have disdain for the use of a brand’s anniversary as a business tool,” wrote Jean Touitou in the notes for APC’s 30th anniversary men’s collection. But he admitted “I could not just stand still and say yes, sure, 30 years.”
And so he celebrated his self-described “sometimes boring” aesthetic, which has admittedly won the label its share of faithful followers, devising a collection that was partly inspired by the brand’s archives — guests had to walk through these, a color-coded assortment housed in the surprisingly vast maze-like basement of its tiny Rue Royale store, to get to the presentation, knocking the point home — and partly by its references of today.
Tweed coats, a thick beige ski sweater with a scarf motif, a checked skater shirt, a cream denim jacket, corduroy pants, a Prince of Wales check oxford coat — all were part of this understated celebratory lexicon.
APC also showcased a capsule collection titled “Hiver 87,” the original name for the brand, including re-edited pieces like the original Standard jeans, which preceded the New Standard, one of the brand’s bestsellers, and an indigo cotton shirt embroidered with initials of people important in Touitou’s life. One monogram was added especially for the 2017 version: K.W. No prizes for guessing what that stands for.
“I’m happy to do something unnoticeable yet remarkable,” said Touitou at the presentation. “This fashion brand has been relevant for 30 years, that’s rare. Some fashion brands last much longer, but they stop being relevant. It’s difficult.”