Philippe Paubert added a touch of rough and ready to his fall proposition for Ungaro, celebrating textured fabrics and surface effects inspired by the Abstract Expressionist art movement, notably Rothko and Motherwell.
His proposition was all the more appealing for being dressed down a little, but not too much: The quality of the fabrics used; the rich yet muted color palette of mainly navy, black, khaki and burgundy, and Paubert’s mastery of tailoring techniques all prevented that. While there was a lot going on here — checks, dots, flowers worked together rather than fighting for attention — the message was luxuriously decadent, rather than overly busy.
Bouclé and boiled wools roughed up much of the outerwear, giving it a blurred effect and there was even a camouflage version of a perfecto jacket, albeit in variations of blue.
Several tailored jackets were worked in knit fabrics that gave them a casual spin, as in a blue and black Prince of Wales check design. Double-breasted waistcoats with mixed motifs added to the vintage art school charm without descending into pastiche, while pants in flannel or wool were given a more relaxed shape thanks to a drawstring waist — unusual for a brand renowned for its tailoring and managing to capture just a hint of leisure without being dressed down.