Creative director Youn Chong Bak brought a more textured approach to the fall collection of young brand Essius, taking the alpine landscapes of the brand’s native Switzerland as her leitmotif and leaving her knack for modern tailoring as a background underpinning the collection.
The collection, like many in Paris and Milan this season, was heavy on outerwear — there were sheepskin jerkins and winter coats aplenty here, worked in pristine off-white or burgundy, or heavy wool jacket and parka versions in the forest green of mountain pines, whose shape was used as a motif for the open darts on the back of more structured designs and whose color was an overriding theme.
Pine trees also featured as an abstract print on sportswear-inspired jackets, while metallic embroidered snow-capped peaks were like military stripes across the shoulders of one cropped jacket. Like luxurious ski badges for kids, glittering snowflakes and trees were pinned on to certain designs.
There were plenty of cozy yet smart options here for sub-zero climes — whether in Switzerland or elsewhere — and a lot of beautiful tailoring. Yet the overriding theme was slightly overbearing, almost a distraction from the collection’s strongest elements.