There’s something very of the “now” about what this buzzy Berlin-based collective is doing: Their way of looking to alternative ways of creating clothes, and designing the kinds of club-meets-street-meets-workwear, genderless pieces they themselves and people from their community might like to wear, having grown out of the city’s club scene. Then there is their multicultural attitude and appropriation – often using deadstock fabrics – of archetype garments or cult items of yore, like the line’s rehashed Nineties Helly Hansen puffer jackets reworked into meticulously constructed biker shapes, or an ultrafine geometric sweater in seamlessly-joined knit panels mixing brown, camel and khaki.
Veering into technoid territory were long-sleeved Lycra tops and navy pants in a glossy navy TPU material – the line’s flashiest item. Plus cream joggers in a fluid, reflective deadstock fabric that were supercool.
A top based on the Pakistani Kurta, in an inside-out deadstock madras, with “Randomly Chosen” spelled out in golden embroidery, had political undertones, nodding to racial stereotyping at airport security checks.
Co-founders Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik played with multiple references but that never swallowed the ease of the clothes, or looked gimmicky. This was the collective’s first official collection but felt more like the building blocks of something bigger to come. A solid appetizer while the second course gets prepared.