The Los Angeles man, from decadent Hollywood diva to the pared-back boys of the early Nineties, was the muse for Jeffrey Rudes’ fourth collection, which he presented in a private duplex apartment where Coco Chanel lived in the Twenties, with its creaking dark parquet floors, vast ceilings and marble fireplaces.
Rudes, who shifted his show from New York to Paris in order to expose the brand to more European buyers and press, said he loved the apartment’s low-key elegance and old-world feel, and plans to keep it as his showroom for the foreseeable future.
It was a fitting backdrop for this collection of outerwear and fine tailoring with a rock ‘n’ roll edge. Rudes, who designs alongside creative director Lorenzo Marchese, said his aim is to nudge the customer gently forward each season and to offer clothes that are “wearable, approachable, and consistent.”
He delivered. Outerwear swung between the rugged and the tailored, as in a long suede buckskin coat or a dark chocolate biker jacket with a gray shearling collar and more sartorial peacoats, double-breasted topcoats with high pocket slashes on the chest, or long chunky corduroy ones in many or peas soup with a Sixties feel.
Shirts played a starring role: Made from feather-light silk crepe de chine, they were printed with abstract cacti or palms, while other white ones had skinny pleats running down the front. Other silk ones came in solids like deep purple or black. “Who doesn’t want to look like Keith Richards?” said Rudes, showing off a silk purple shirt against his skinny dark denim jeans (also from the collection).
There was a host of eveningwear, too, including a black moire silk dinner jacket fit for Rat Packers, one done with a lamé finish, and a purple crushed velvet one — for divas only.