What with the mounds of curly sawdust swept into the corners of the Loewe showroom, and the half-carved bits of blond wood surrounding them, it was clear Jonathan Anderson was thinking about traditional, everyday crafts for fall — and the men who work in them.
“I’m a huge fan of St. Ives (on England’s Cornish coast) and I loved the idea of the fisherman, the real person who worked, work that did not need an Industrial Revolution,” said Anderson, Loewe’s creative director, adding that he was also playing with this idea of craft. “When we strip craft right down to its raw form, we associate it with childhood and naivety — people who remind us of our childhood.”
While the leather blacksmith-style apron dress, the cutout cotton tops festooned with colored tassels and the denim waders worn with fishermen’s boots may have been a tad costumey for many a man’s wardrobe, there was much to relish here — in particular, the accessories and outerwear.
Knitwear played a big role, with a soft fisherman cable knit covering a big tote bag while a needlepoint image of a pipe-smoking old man adorned a smaller pouch and leather messenger bag. Other canvas messenger bags were stencil-stamped like ship’s cargo, while keychains came with leather animals dangling from them. They were displayed on a carved wooden Noah’s Ark.
Outerwear included mint or denim shearling jackets with foaming white collars; patchwork plaid jackets that had a punk vibe; a long cobalt shearling with black leather details, and a show-stopper shearling done in colored stripes like a stack of Lifesavers. The latter would be for the working man who’s enjoying an early — and prosperous — retirement.