The cool Parisian intellectual never loses his allure, does he? Bundled into a big coat, lost in a gray fug of cigarette smoke, battered philosophy book in hand, he just can’t stop thinking – and thinking. The Maison Margiela team designed the fall collection with this tortured l’homme in mind, dressing him in typically deconstructed and intellectually challenging pieces, all with the Margiela frayed-edged aesthetic.
Among the highlights of the presentation, where models sat in a semi-circle as if they were at a university lecture or gathered in groups, clutching books, was a long herringbone overcoat with a frayed canvas toile lining peeking from underneath and a Prince of Wales check suit with a similar fabric flashing from beneath the jacket. A faded leather jacket with hacked off sleeves and charred, colored patches looked as if it had seen many a student protest, while a houndstooth coat was covered in bits of fine white string.
For the more technical outerwear, the Margiela team swiped knotted rope details from life savers and planted them on padded olive or black coats and a padded sleeveless vest. Those ropes also came as belts, dangling from the waists of trousers that gathered around ankle or pooled over white sneakers. Shearling coats and jackets were more straightforward including a short one done in icy pale blue and white and another, longer one in olive brown, lashed at the waist with a leather rope-like belt. It was a thinking man’s collection if ever there was one.