Luke Meier in this supermodern, intelligently conceived collection walked a fine line between youth and sophistication.
These were wearable yet directional pieces that gave the wearer options. Clever take-or-leave detachable quilting details, like a gleaming white puffer collar on a black chesterfield topcoat gave a sense of activewear, but can be popped off for a more classic look.
There were many great elements to Meier’s studied look, like his use of shirting to add layers and the line’s high-tech statement sneakers.
The outerwear got the heart pumping, too, especially a triple-hooded parka with different colored detachable hoods; voluminous puffers pulled close with strap fasteners, and a bomber in striped shirting fabric with a tracksuit collar. Pants were cropped with a slightly baggy drop-crotch.
Tapestry accents and a moth theme — explored in sweaters perforated with motifs evoking the insect, letting shirt patterns show through and one sweater with a wings-spread moth-shaped edge — were among codes nodding to an underlying fraternity theme. The idea, explained the designer backstage, was of “kinship and belonging, and modes of behavior when you’re a member of a part of a secret society or a formal group; that you gain access into this select world and you’re part of that.”
One thing’s for sure: A growing band of fans will probably soon be lining up to join the OAMC tribe of Meier who, as reported, also will soon have a wider audience since he’s expected to be named a co-creative director at Jil Sander.