That the Rochas man — revived after a 22-year hiatus — is a high-flying executive type is literally woven into the fiber of his elaborate, travel-inspired wardrobe in which the folded, craggy textures on sweatshirts and shirt bibs were inspired by aerial views of mountains.
Even when in flight mode, the Rochas man likes to be well put together, explained Béatrice Ferrant, whipping out a crease-free tuxedo pant with an elasticated waist and a stripe flowing from the pocket inspired by ley lines. “This he would pair with an embroidered sweater. Easy going — kind of,” the designer said. “The Rochas man is an urban Petit Prince. Whatever he’s doing, he is always elegant and comfortable.”
Even the jacket lining of a satin black and navy jacket with a distressed surface was concept-driven, cut in the shape of a double R, for “Rochas reloaded.”
There were some nice ideas here and the luxe fabrications lived up to the legacy of this heritage Parisian label. But at times the delivery felt a tad too try-hard in its desire to be modern, particularly on some of the finishes like the coated, metalized denim. Perhaps the Rochas man, in his new incarnation, needs to put down his bags and take some time to breathe a little.